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Orto is our resident Australian transmission expert.
 

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This option may take as long as 7-14 days and sometimes longer before you receive the answer to your enquiries.

Please note while we will make every attempt to answer the question as accurately as possible in some cases a road test and vehicle computer scan can sometimes be required.

It is our intention using the information contained within your E-mails to at least set you in the right direction with the least amount of fuss and in most cases give you a very good idea on what you are dealing with and the most cost effective way to solve the problem.

If Orto thinks your query is a really good question, he will even add it here on his page so that all other visitors can quickly see the answers to the most common of questions that are asked.

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Country : australia - Make : toyota - Model : landcruiser hj 75 - Year : 11/97 - Engine : 1hz deisel - Transmission : manual 5 speed
I do a lot of outback desert driving around the cooper basin and the sanddunes are hard on the gearbox as this is the 2nd box in avery short time . I have seen autos carrying similar loads and seem to tow quite well and i am wondering how complicated it was to fit up an 80 series auto to my 75 series ute

We have the perfect transmission that will bolt straight up to both the engine and transfercase for $7905 inc gst. No Computer Required, This is a full Hydraulic A442F Transmission. Fully (Reconditioned) Heavy Duty Extreme A442F Hydraulic Transmission that comes with the following: Heavy Duty Modified Torque Convertor (Reconditioned), Bell Housing (S/hand), Filler Tube & Dip Stick (S/hand), Inhibitor Switch (S/hand), Automatic Drive Plate (S/hand), Crank Bolts (S/hand), Torque Convertor Bolts (S/hand), Engine - Transmission Sandwich Plate (S/hand), Extra Large Oil Cooler (New) 5m Of 10mm I.D Cooler Hose (New), 4 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps (New), 16L Of Full Synthetic Transmission Oil (New). Plus freight if required.

Great web site, has provided plenty of quality answers that have helped me out heaps - thanks I have a query relating to an auto 100 series landcruiser. the motor is running gas and I am thinking of putting a turbo onto it to boost output to around 520Nm. Have you heard of this being done (do you know of anybody who has ?) - considering it is a gas motor, can the auto gearbox handle 500Nm ? I dont think it can so what upgrade do you think would be suitable. Its used for city work, counrty touring, towing a boat and beach work. Many thanks Anthony
We have seen the A442F transmission pushed to 700Hp when fitted with the High Output "Turbo Extreme Stage II Valve Body". This valve body was designed for the 500Hp plus engines that we have had to build our Extreme Valve Bodies for. The torque convertor should be fine but I would fit one of our Complete Temp Gauge Kits for the transmission so you can keep an eye on the transmissions temp. Most of the Turbo Extreme Valve Bodies are built for a company in United Arab Emirates that do a lot of this type of work. I have done a few in Australia but I haven't paid any attention as to who's turbo kits they were fitting and I'm not sure that I have heard of any doing it solely on LPG. The Extreme Valve Body Kit is $795 inc gst change over. The Complete Temp gauge Kit is $225 inc gst.

hi there orto i just need a price on a c6 auto to suit 460 bb in a 79 f100 with roughly 500 horses regards flamin joe.
The price for a heavy duty C6 that will handle that sort of power is $2230 inc gst Outright. This is our top of the range Heavy Duty Extreme Stage II C6 Transmission and comes with a Kiln Bronzed and Micro Balanced Torque Convertor. The standard C6 transmission simply wont handle this sort of power. Take a look at this link about our Extreme C6 Transmissions. http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/extreme_c6.asp

I need a computer for a Mitsubish Magna automatic Model TR, do you have one?
Yes we have brand new OEM Transmission Control Computers for the TR Mitsubishi Magna here at Wholesale Automatic Transmissions. They are Brand New Computers and Not reconditioned units and come with a full warranty. We can either fit them while you wait or post one to you. Hope this helps. Phone: 03-97628004

i am in need of a transmission controller or valvebody to allow me to use 4l80e trans in my motor-home. i have no computer in motor-home to control trans.
We are dealers for what is widly considered to be the very best stand a-loan Automatic Transmission Control Unit here at Wholesale Automatics and sell them for for $2195 plus postage if required. We sell the complete kit with the programmer/display as part of the kit and not an extra like other dealers do. Take a look at this link I have added and learn more about this unit. http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=15332

I drive a thirty foot, 12,000lbs GVWR Revcon motorhome, which is powered by an Olds 403 thorugh a TurboHydromatic 425. I'm wondering if you can tell me at what temperatures one might expect the transmission to run and, more specifically, can you give some temperature ranges one should hope to maintain? Thanks in advance, Mark in Modesto (Ca)
Anything under 100C is great but I would imagine temperatures between 80C and 120C as normal for this transmission. Anything over that then I would be adding an extra cooler and if you ever got to 150C (300F) then I would want you off the road straight away letting the engine just sit there idling to keep the transmission oil circulating to help it cool down. Never take a transmission over 150C (300F) unless you want to be towed home. Fit a good temp gauge. We put the kit together here at Wholesale Automatics. We can be contacted here in Australia on 03-97628004.

Hi, I have a 2000 landcruiser with a 4.5 petrol and an a442f 4 speed auto. When towing, the car seems to have trouble pulling medium loads ( 1700 kg ) up hills and speed drops to 40k's. It will drop down gears ok to but cannot increase speed. Gear changes have a bit of lag to them as well. Driving without a load performance seems normal. The engine runs smoothly and is in tune. A friend has an 80 series with the same engine and performance is much better. Could I have some kind of problem causing power loss within the transmission when under load ?? Is the a442f capable of towing a max load of 3300 kg on a regular basis? Could I also get some idea on pricing to have it rebuilt with the recal valve body if applicable ? Thanks in advance.
We can help you in regards to the poor shift quality and overall transmission performance just by fitting the Extreme Stage II Recalibrated Valve Body. This valve body is well suited to heavy towing and all-round reliability in all applications especially where the engine power has been increased but I do believe that you also have an engine tune problem. The 80 series can tow 3000Kg and I now this personally with my own 80 series towing our large enclosed race trailer so I would take it in and have the engine side of things looked at. I doubt very much that there is anything wrong with the transmission as they are a great transmission that is well suit to this kind of work, all you need is the Extreme Valve Body to top it off and sort the engine out.

hi stall convertors which one would you recommend in a c10 + 351 and what sort of improvement speed wise would i expect ? Thanks in advance
Well it very much depends on when the cam comes in (starts working from) because you always set the stall speed 200 Rpm before the max torque output from the engine. If it's a standard cam then a 2500 is by far the best all-round stall speed if you want a hi stall convertor . Great on take off, Can still tow with great ease, Fuel economy doesn't change to much and it doesn't seem to get overly hot. I would however recommend a good oil cooler for this transmission. We always look for the very best when it comes to coolers so be particular fussy when it comes to choosing one. We recommend the cross flow (Plate) all aluminium coolers.

Hello Orto, I have a 98 EL ford fairmont sedan. The transmission has a harsh shift between 1st and 2nd and also after a run on the freeway a harsh thump from 2nd to 1st. After switching to sports mode to try and eliminate the control unit it did run better for about 3 months and now it has the problem in both sport and economy. It was doing the same thing 12 months ago and I changed the fluid and filter which were very dirty and the fluid was burnt aswell. This fixed the problem for about 12 months. I also checked the solenoid valves resistance and inhibitor switch contacts for corrosion. All seemed OK at the time of testing. Being an electronic transmission I am not sure at this stage if it is mechanical problem or in the control side electronics. If you have something else that I could test or perhaps have come across this problem before, your reply to this problem will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Todd
Sounds like the S5 solenoid if faulty, you can't check a solenoid just by resistance as a component of each one is mechanical and it is this that can also fail. We can fit a new one with transmission service for $495 inc gst Hope this helps.

Hey i have a 1985 VK Commodore which is a 3 speed auto. Often when i turn corners or brake too heavily, the car will knock itself out of gear for a couple of seconds before re-engaging. It also slips if there is too much acceleration. What's the problem and approximately how much will it cost to fix?
The car is low on oil and therefore has an oil leak that needs to be taken care of as soon as possible. A transmission service would be a smart thing to do at the same time.

Hi I have an A343F transmission in a V6 Prado. For steep descents I wanted to make an override to manually lock the Torque converter to improve engine braking & control. Controlling the TCC from SL (blue wire) terminal on the ECU, I have found that the TCC will manually lock in every gear except first which is obviously where it is needed. It won't lock in 1st regardless of where the tranmission selector is. I haven't tried tracing it back to the transmission to see if there is any control mechanism between the ECU & transmission which may disable TCC lock in 1st. Is this because of hydraulic valving, or do I need to trace the wiring? Thanks Phil
You would need to fit one of our Extreme Recalibrated Valve Bodies to over come this problem. There is a 1st and reverse gear override that stops the loc-up from working. All of our Extreme valve bodies have this feature removed regardless of if they are fitting a relay lock-up or not. You can't just hard wire the lock-up either as you will burn the transmission out if the loc-up is left Off for to long. We sell a relay manual lock-up kit that solves this problem.

I've just fitted new seals to my trimatic and am having a bit of trouble refitting her to my Blue 308 in WB Statesman. I think the trouble lies with getting the torque converter mated properly with the transmission. I thought I had the lugs on the converter properly home as it seemed to sink right into the bellhousing, although they obviously weren't as when I refitted everything and turned the key, nothing would happen (maybe the converter shifted between fitting to the trans and fitting to the engine). Then I tried turning the engine by hand, and she still wouldn't budge. I then recalled how difficult it was to get the trans attachment bolts properly tightened (so the bellhousing mated with the back of the engine) and came to the above conclusion. I have now pulled her apart again and can't seem to fit the converter any closer than before. Any helpful hints? I am at my wits end and would love to hear what you guys think before bolting it all together again. Thanks.
Trans should mate to engine without pulling on with the bolts .When home the convertor should be free and able to be pushed in and out before bolting to the flex plate. If you removed the bellhousing it is now likely misalined. A special alingment tool is required ,assuming u dont have one try loosening the bellhousing to pump bolts inserting the convertor and tighten the bolts u can reach with it in place. Remove convertor and tighten the rest. When the convertor is in properly it will usually touch the back of the housing and is pulled fwrd on assembly. DO NOT pull bellhousing to engine via bolts as this will lead to pump breakage. Best Of Luck. Stuart.

hi orto, im after a turbo700r4 box with corvette servo,shift kit and high pressure valves. what should i be paying for a tranie like this its going behind a p76 v8. cheers niko.
We are 2 different High Performance T/700 Transmissions. The first is our Hp T/700 for $2950 inc gst outright and the other is our Extreme T/700 for $3700 inc gst outright. Here is the link for the Extreme T/700 Transmission. http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/extreme_t700.asp

Hi I have a EB Ford Falcon. The problem is the auto does not know what gear it should be in.
Sounds like the inhibitor switch on the side of the transmission. $85 inc gst fitted. If the Speedo is playing up then we would replace the Speedo sender unit instead $75 inc gst fitted. Regards Rodney

for low revs at highway speeds and a 302, what automatic transmission is my best option. is it better to get a reliable c4 or a c6 or an aod or a e4od. considering I would have to change the diff ratio if I got a c-series box. thankyou
The AOD is by far the best for Highway Use. 25% over drive and a lower fist gear for take off. No computer needed and bolts straight up to both the Cleveland and Windsor block. You wouldn't want to run a diff any taller than 3.25 or the engine won't be able to pull the car under 1800 Rpm. We have them here for $2100 inc gst outright for a fully reconditioned standard unit or $2950 inc gst for a heavy duty unit. We also have an Extreme AOD for $3700 inc gst outright.

Where can I get housing between automatic trans and transfer to suit 93 GQ patrol.Also is there an aftermarket controller(ECU)to suit
We have them here for $125 inc gst S/Hand. You don't need an after market ECU, just run the GQ TB42 or TD42 transmission ECU. It is a transmission only unit, you will also need the TPS and other input items to complete the ECU circuit but it's fairly easy. In fact a TB42E would also work as it is also a stand a lone unit but I would use the earlier units to be sure. I have the ECU here for $295 inc gst.

Hi ,Hope you can help. I've got a VL auto and I'm having a lot of problems with autos. I have a Jatco box stuck in 3rd , no second and 1st seems to be locked up tight and jams the box up. the overdrive works perfect. Fluid levels are fine and the converter is about 8 months old. I am considering a manual conversion because I'm over this auto. Also the cost would be more effective too. Any ideas you could throw my way would be hugely appreciated. Glenn
You will need to have the transmission rebuilt but I would go for a high performance unit instead of a Std transmission like you have been. We do them here at Wholesale Automatics. We also have Full Manual Jatco 3N71B and 4N71B Extreme Valve Bodies and Extreme Stage II Jatco Transmissions with or without Transbrake.

How do you assemble the governer in the tail housing on a Powerglide transmission for a 69'-72' Chevy. A diagram would be useful. Thanks, Jeff
This was the best I could do! It is the procedure for removing the governor but I'm hoping this has the information that will help. Regards Rodney

I would like to put a 4 speed dox onto a Cleveland 351 what would be the best auto box would be best to use. thanks
A well built Ford AOD 4 Speed Hydrolic transmission will work well but I wouldn't use a standared unit. It would need to be beefed up. We Sell both the AOD Heavy Duty Hp Transmission for $2950 inc gst outright and the Extreme AOD for $3700 inc gst outright. These are the only 2 that are going to work and fit well.

Hi I have a auto 98 WRX and the car doesnt want to change gears when its cold once the engine is warm it drives fine? I am getting quotes up to 7K what is the likely rpoblem and how much should it cost to fix roughly? Cheers
More likely to an electrical problem and I would be looking at the TPS switch on the intake manifold first. Regards Rodney 03-97628004

I have a 1994 80 series Landcruiser petrol auto. If I lock the transmission in low on a hill decent it will still kick up a gear when the engine revs reach it's normal change up revs. ie about 1600rpm in high and 2200rpm in low. 1. Is this normal? and 2. Is there any way I can keep the tranny locked in low on hill decents. Thanks Heaps PatC
Hi it's Rodney here. It simply should not be changing up. I also have the 1994 80 Series and I can rev it up well into the Red and it still won't change up. I believe the linkages might need adjusting or are worn and the transmission is in 2nd or the switch on the side of the transmission is loose or in the wrong position and the transmission computer thinks that the transmission is in 2nd. Give me a ring if you still have problems. Regards Rodney

Thanks for your help orto,removed broken bits of QR valve wich were jamming 1-2 shift valve and found the rest of it in the servo cover.Replaced QR valve gearbox works fine now once again thanks orto. manfred
Good to here that all went well and thanks for your return E-mail. Cheers Rodney

Hi, i have a dodge bus with a 318 dodge engine in it, i would like to fit a A442F or a A440F toyota/dyna transmission in it, will these tranmissions stand up to the job. is there a bell housing availabe to fit the transmission to the 318 dodge, and if so where can i buy one. is there any modification to the transmission needed to make it work. thanks, Bruce
While the A440 would be a nice fit the stall speed would be to high for the size of the engine multiplied by the weight of the buss. I would use the Chevy 4L80E (4 Speed T/400) as they are as tough as nails, you can get an adaptor from us here at Wholesale to suit this adaptation. The 4L80E can be used either Electronically or Manuel, we sell both of these transmission Brand New as they are cheaper than a reco unit believe it or not. We also have the computer for the unit to run Electronically and it is programmable making it a fantastic system to use but it comes at a cost and this is why we also take a new transmission and modify it so it can be used manually. A very strong transmission and we have done many and sent them all over the would, so they do have a great reputation for both reliability and strength. Regards Rodney

Hi Orto and thanks in advance. I have 1995 auto vs-v6 commodore, It recently started leaking oil out of the front of the transmission. I have taken the transmission out and had it looked at and have been told that it has blown the front seal, Also there are ware marks on the toque converter. Transmission has also been slow in changing up gears as of late, was told that a full rebuild with a stage 2 kit would be my best options thought i would post here for your ideas first thanks again.
When the transmission starts to leak front it's front seal then I would believe that it is better to get a rebuilt transmission. If the front seal has gone hard then all the other seals in the transmission can't be far behind. Seem a wast of money to spend so much replacing 1 seal and a convertor to passably have to do the whole lot a few months later. We modify all of our rebuilt transmission to some extent depending of what the customer wants and is using the car for. Stage II shift kits are quite good and I like them but then again I like firm but not hard shifts. It's a personal preference but most shift kits help the transmissions life span. Regards Rodney 0415393755 03-97628004

Hiya Orto. My VK EFI 6's trimatic has suddenly decided that 1st gear is the only way to go. I've always reckoned it is a bit keen to hang on to 1st for a bit too long (thought it might be GMH's "sporty" shift pattern) but now it holds it until the bitter end before shifting into a neutral where 2nd used to be. Well, it did before it blew 1/2 the teeth off the distributor cog but I know how to fix that. THe fluid looks & smells clean & it's full, although the dipstick has a little surface rust 1/2 way down (possible grit in the works ?) It has been generally alright for the last 15000 k's I've owned it - clean, fast changes (fishtails into 2nd in the wet), quick into gears from neutral. Waddaya reckon ?
You either have a vacuum problem or a broken QR valve. Replace the vacuum rubbers at each end of the vacuum line and drill a small 1/16 hole down the middle of the union that the vacuum hose connects to on the intake manifold. NO bigger than 1/16, very common for these to block! doing these couple of things BEFORE worrying about the QR valve fixes 90% of these problems ( felling Lucky? ) Let me know how you went!

In installing an oil cooler, should the new cooler be placed after the cooler in the radiator or should the cooler in the radiator be eliminated altogether?
A very good question that only you can answer! You see it's down to personal choice as running both coolers would produce a more efficient cooling system while if the cooler in the radiator ever burst you would loose the transmission because once water gets into the oil it's to late. If you run a really good large cooler then I would not run it through the radiator but it's your choice.

Orto, I have previously purchased an Extreme TH350 from your company. I am changing the inline filter in the hose and have mixed up the feed hoses. Could you please tell me which is the inlet and the outlet on the gearbox. There are two lines from the gearbox, one is low and the other one is high. Thanks in advance. Andrew Graham Canberra ACT P.S. - Thanks for an outstanding performance gearbox that has put an end to all my previous gearbox woes. Cheers!
Oil flow comes out of the bottom cooler union and back into the top after going through the cooler on all T/350, T/400, T/700 and Power Glide transmissions.

hi i have a landcruiser with a 6.2 chev diesel that has a t700 behind it the three wires that come out of the box where do they go i know they are for lockup. I all so have a micro switch on the injector pump I have been told that it is for the lockup. If it`s posible can you please tell me how to wire up the lockup as i a not sure how it is done. it has been done on this motor and box before.
Depending on which T/700 you have there are a couple of ways of getting the lock up to work by it's self. We have made up an electrical system that fits all axillary and hydraulic valve body systems that do not require any switches or vacuum systems. Just one constant power wire and our system does the rest for you. You can run the power wire through the micro switch on the injector pump, this should override the lock up at full throttle only. Our system brings the lock up as soon as hit gets into 4th gear once the transmission has warmed up. You will only be running power to one of the terminals while the other two will no longer be used.

Hello Orto, Thanks for the web site - its great to see aussie companies providing 'world class' services. I have a possible problem with my tranny and would greatly appreciate any advice. Firstly the vehicle: I have a 1982 Hilux 4x4 with a Turbo 350 auto and Holden 253 using Marks adaptors. The engine is essentially stock but in great condition, and the tranny has been re-drilled to bolt on to the 253. Driveshafts have been modified and balanced and the modified diffs are 4.1 ratio. There are no mounts between those supporting the engine and the transfer case. The problem is a large vibration that is felt and heard a high speed, seeming to come up through the cabin floor. This vibration is not engine rpm related (I checked this with different diameter tyres, and the vibration occurs at same rear wheel rpm) and is present under acceleration and (slightly less) under deceleration. Tranny was supposedly rebuilt about 5 years ago, and has been driving and shifting very well (except for a loud, high pitch de-de-de-de-de-de noise when cold at idle - ????). I think the high speed vibration began following replacement of the flex plate a couple of years ago - the old one broke and I drove him for a short while with the cracked flex plate. I have tried rotating the position of the new flex plate to no avail. As part of a frustrating process of elimination (changing wheels, tyres, engine mounts, driveshaft, suspension parts), my question is could the torque converter or tranny be causing the vibration, by being out of balance or otherwise stuffed?. Secondly, and I dont know if this is related, but lately I have also noticed that sometimes the car does not seem to want to stop when I pull up at the lights, and occasionally there is a clunk after the vehicle has stopped moving, or shortly after I have began moving again. If the clunk does not occur, I can often induce it by stepping lightly on the accelerator with the brakes on, and the clunk occurs when I take my foot off of the accelerator. The last tranny oil and filter change was about 9 months ago. Finally, given the diff ratios and engine (which may be small, but is a monster compared to the original!) the car is a bit of a dog off the line. Could this be a consequence of mating the little 253 to a Turbo 350? Do you have a converter or tranny kit that may improve the low-end torque? Thanks heaps for your time.
If you have had some cam work done then it is possible that you will need a convertor with a higher stall speed. If the car needs to travel a short distance before the engine starts to pull hard then this is almost a dead give away. If the engine idle is set to high then this can cause the clunk and will also make it hard to pull the car up to a stop, could also be a sticking throttle or faulty vacuum idle up if the car is fitted with one. If what you say is right then I would doubt very much that the vibration is anywhere within the engine, convertor, drive plate, transmission or transfercase. We can test this by putting the transfercase in neutral and running the engine up and down through the rev range while the transmission is in drive and while the car is still at a complete stand still. If there is no vibration then you can safely eliminate all of these items including the water pump, power steering pump, fan belts ect. like wise if the vibration is there then it must be within these items. You can eliminate the front drive shaft by removing it and road testing and do the same for the rear shaft. All you need to do is THINK about how I can eliminate a particular item rather than find the vibration straight away and you will quickly find yourself with a very short list and in some cases be left with only one item left. I doubt very much that the diff centre can be causing the vibration as I can't see how and have never seen it before. Regards: Rodney 03-97628004

hey guys! firstly I wana say thank you for suppliing me with the transgo shift kit for my T700. Its been in for about a year now and is still going very strong indeed!! Nice hard shifts! the converter is standard and I will be getting a high stall as the engine is getting worked. Now what exactly does the lock up feature do? do I need to retain it? Any help is much appreciated thanks!
In almost every case I would use the lock up convertor as it will give you a little better economy but most of all it will keep the transmission temperatures a lot lower. There is a good way to do this so the transmission will run the lock up for you but we need to make a couple of small changes to the valve body. Regards: Rodney 03-97628004

I have chronic transmission problems with my '84 Chevy diesel (700R4). I have gone through several transmissions, and contemplating swapping to a standard. I like the auto, but a trannie every couple years is out of hand !! Can you give me some advice ??
Replace the transmission with an 4L80E 4 speed Chevy transmission. You if you have had a few built then we can hardly blame the rebuilder. I would think that you just need a stronger transmission and the 4L80E is the way to go. For the most part it will bolt straight up except the tail shaft yoke, rear mount and filler tube and dip stick. You will need to run a stand alone computer or have the transmission manuelised. Either way will work very well. It will cost you more but in the long run save you a LOT OF MONEY. We have them here and will cost you about $6145 Aus including warranty, new convertor, complete stand alone computer system and programer/display unit. They are brand new.

After a long drive & when towing or 4 Wheel Driving there is a strong smell of auto trans fluid or hot tranny, what's happening? The vehicle is a 98 100 series 1hz diesel with after market turbo, 140,000k's. How would I completely drain the tranny/converter, to replace the fluid with synthetic auto fluid? Also how much do your low stall converter's cost, do you exchange? It would need to be frieghted to Sydney.
Please take a look at out latest new release about the Toyota Landcruiser over heating problems. http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/release.asp?NewsId=10282 Our Super low stall convertors are $660 Aus inc gst and round trip freight to Sydney is $30 each way inc gst. Any transmission shop can do a full flush service changing the oil to Synthetic but it will cost more than a normal service. I would also consider our Extreme recalibrated valve body as this will help with the Heat problem, Turbo and Shift quality. $795 Aus inc gst. Regards Rodney 03-97628004

I have a chev LS7 454 which I am fitting into my 98 80 series landcruiser. I wish to fit a T/700 auto trans. Will this trans take the torque of this motor. The cam I am using runs from 1300 to 5600 what kind of lock up torque converter do I need. Regards Lynton dale
You will need to have the transmission built as an Extreme Stage II with Kilm Bronzed and Micro Balanced Standard Stall Convertor. This will cost you $3700 inc gst outright plus freight if required. If the 80 Series is already automatic then we have a 350Kw Extreme Stage II valve body, Super low stall convertor and adaptor kit that allows for the Big Block Chevy to be bolted straight up to the A442F Landcruiser transmission. Make sure you use a full synthetic transmission oil, Both Castrol and Amsoil make this type of oil.

I have a 4L80E trans & ECU out of a 95 Chev Suburban , I want to fit it into my bus, a 8000 GVM . It has a 454 non fuel injected engine fitted ,I'd like know if it would be possible or practicable to fit enough sensors to run auto shift or should I go for a manual shift, I would prefer to keep it full auto shift. Regards Clive
Yes it is practical to keep the 4L80E as a full auto using the sensors and if you have any problem we also have a complete stand alone computer system that is programmable to suit for $2400 inc gst Aus

MR.ORTO: I am from Costa Rica, Central America. I have a Toyota Land Cruiser, gasoline, 1991, HDJ80, automotic, A440F. I am stalling a motor 1HDT, Diesel, transmission automatic. The motor with the transmission was sent from Japan. This engine and the automatic transmission (A442F) is 1994. The computer was not include with the eletric installation for the automatic transmission, I mean A442F. I would like to know if the computer for this automatic transmission A442F of my diesel motor (1HDT) could be used for a gasoline one or it (A442F) has to be only for diesel. And I would like to know Mr. Orto if you have this computer for the automatic transmission A442F with my engine IHDT, 1994 and how much does it cost in US dollars. Thank you very much for your help. Douglas Arias
The A440F transmission does not use a Computer control unit and the A442F can not run with out one. I would bolt the A440F transmission including the bell housing and convertor up to the new engine as your car doesn't have the computer to make the A442F work!

I am installing a Turbo700 into my LX Torana. The box is from an early VN and has an electrical plug with three contacts. I was expecting one to be an earth and the other two to be a reverse light and an ignition switch. After using my multi meter and shifting gears I am confused. The results seem to indicate that two of the pins are the power and earth for a relay which may activate the other pin. Are you able to set me straight on what the three pins are for?
The 3 pins are for the lock up convertor, One is an earth. The T/700 doesn't run an internal inhibitor switch. Use the inhibitor switch that's connected to your t.bar under the consol.

I have a 93 VR Commodore with a 4L60E transmission. The gear changes are very sloppy. What would you recommend to fix this problem?
We do a Stage II shift kit for these transmissions that comes out very nice. We fit the shift kit and service the transmission at the same time for $795 inc gst

Hello orto, I have a vibration problem with my trimatic Transmission which is installed behind a 202 in a HZ 1 Tonner.Around 3000 rpm the car vibrates through the frame with increased rpm the vibration goes away, this occurs in all gears including park or neautral.If I jack the transmission off the cross member the vibration disappears altogeather. Ive replaced the mount with the new one as the old mount had collapsed and was sitting just off the crossmember bolt ends, Thinking this would solve the problem. I've made sure the cross member bolts were short enough to clear the top half of the new mount.With the new mount the car vibrates even more at the same RPM range.The rubber on the new mount seems to be very hard compared with the old.is there a softer mount or could the problem be something else. Cheers Dave
Sounds like the problem is most definately the mount can only suggest closer inspection.Lifting it will not make it go away unless it is the problem,Is trans touching elsewhere maybe until u lift it? ie exhaust or something else like engine sump touching sub frame etc.

I have a 1986 HJ61-RG-PZXQ Landcruiser with an A440F transmission which has done some 280,000km (owned from new). The transmission feels as if it needs overhaul or replacement - (rough on takeoff). Do you have changeover or extreme units available? if so how much and how do we organise the changeover. The rest of the vehicle is fine and suits us well and we would like to keep it running. We do a lot of outback travel and have a concern at being stuck somewhere a long way from anywhere. Is there a better solution to extend the life of the vehicle eg swap engine and transmission - would a later engine/transmission pair fit to the existing transfer case? If not how can I keep my power takeoff winch with this option? Graham Watson
We have all of the above that you have asked about. We have everything from Toyota Landcruiser Shift Kits, Extreme Change Over Transmissions and Engine Conversion kits to suit both the Chevy V8 petrol and Chevy V8 6.5 Diesel and Turbo Diesel. You would need to ring me about this one as there are so many options we have for you. We even have several customers that had all of these type of modifications and adaptations done so you can have a talk with them yourself. Rodney 03-97628004

I have a 1992 Series 80 Landcruiser and want to be able to start off in second gear in low ratio. The 100 series has a switch to make this happen. Can a switch that will do this be fitted to the 80 Series. The gearbox is a A442F type. Any assistance greatfully received.
The 2nd gear take off ties straight into the cars computer system and as far as I know there is no way of getting the earlier model ECU to handle this function. The transmissions themselves are the same, it's only the computer telling the transmission what gear to be in.

Hi orto. I've got a 1991 80 series VX Sahara Landcruiser with a 1HDT turbo diesel and the auto box. I'ts done about 480,000. When I take off, the change from 1st to 2nd is smooth if I put the pedal down, but get it at the wrong low rev range or decelerating and I get a good clunk. These boxes seem to have a good reputation and it seems to be a common problem ( I sussed it on the net) Should I worry? Also 4th gear seems to have two parts to it like I have two final gears now, 4th and 4-1/2. It still drives beautifully though. Cheers Clint
The thumping and banging is normal believe it or not and the double thump into 4th is the lock up coming on almost at the same time as the 4th gear. Backing the kick down off will soften the clunk but you can only go so far before I have to modify the throttle valve system on the valve body.

my air condition on my 93 5.0 mustang is not blowing cold air like it should or should i say use to. Ive up graded the trans a bit by installing a shift kit and also a 2400 stall converter with a trans cooler mounted in front of the radiator. An air conditioning shop owner told me that he thinks the problem is with the trans cooler being mouted on the condencer unit and advised me to remove it because he thinks its taking up a lot of space in front of the unit hampering it from getting the full amount of outside air coming from the grill. he wants me to try removing it before i start spending money replacing the air conditioner unit. My question is can my trans run normal temp etc without the cooler without blowing or over heating it up?
Factory cooler should be sufficient but not ideal. Try fitting cooler elsewhere if removing it makes a difference. Running a hi-stall creates more heat than the manufacturer allowed for when designing the factory cooler.

I have a 1975 Leyland bus which I am converting into a mobile home. I propose to fit a 350 Chev. The bus has a No.1 Eaton diff fitted (ratio unsure possibly 6.3) and is running 8.25 x 20 rear dual wheels. The GVM is 9.4 tonne. I would like to find a suitable automatic transmission to fit behind the Chev 350 that would not require an adaptor plate. An Allison AT545 has been suggested. What torque converter etc. What else would you recommend that would do the job and provide good reliable service for a mobile home.
We have Brand New 4L80E (4 speed T/400) Stage II Full Manuel Heavy Duty transmissions available. Standard Fitment into many large U.S motor homes. And the best part is No adaptor plate needed. $5950.00 inc gst. Phone ME Rodney 03-97628004

Hi im interested in a tranny shift kit for my falcon AU1 wagon. do you have a suitable one? $? Also will the ECU eventually learn its way around this? I have an aftermarket cam installed also and notice it's pull really kicks in around the 2800-3000rpm mark, would it be benificial in putting in a high-stall converter? Again will the ECU eventually learn around this? What cost would this be?
The ECU will failsafe when using a high stall convertor and we are currently developing a shift kit for the ford 4 speed that includes an ECU Firewall for the logic program. (Tricky Bit). This is still going to take some time but we are getting there.

I have heard u can make a Vk sound louder by ajusting a screw what screw would that be?
Probably the one that holds the Mufler on. I think someone might be having a lend of you. hahaha

I have a turbo Calais (RB30) with a Nissan 4sp auto. Runs in first gear only. Metal flakes in trans pan. I have another tranny I bought second - hand opened the pan and again metal in pan (several teaspoons of fine aluminium type). Q Are these trans repairable - if so where is best most reliable repairer? Can you give the cost about? How important is the signs of metal? I need to get this car on the road and want it reliable. Many thanks
We can rebuild one of your transmissions for $1600 inc gst + freight if required for a standard unit or $3700 inc gst for our Extreme Stage II Fully Blue Printed Transmission with Kilm Bronzed and Micro Balanced Convertor. Rodney 03-97628004

I am building a new drag car to replace my turbo Honda and I want to go RWD. I am running a modified Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo and tube chassis with a Ford 9" locker. I want to run a switchable lockup converter for top end mph. Is there an adapter plate available to mate my engine to a TH350 Chev trans? Or is there a better choice of trans? Just Thought I should ask the expert. Thanks.
I'm sure that Rod Hatfield from the Castlemaine Rod Shop in Castlemaine Victoria can help you with the adaptor. The T350C will work well but I also know that our Technical, development and Motorsports division has just finished developing the Lock Up 2 Speed Powerglide.

I have an XB two door project car under my house. Just recently my son start fixing it up so it could run and after fixing the engine to a fire breathing monster he found the c4 not to even shift into gear. Checking it out it looked ok so he replaced the sump gasket and filter and started filling it up with fluid only to have it run out on the floor from the back of the box up the top. Out of some sort of valve or something. My question is what is this this and how do we fix it. And if it requires a rebuild how much for your shop to do it.
The valve is infact a breather and the transmission is well overfull. I would suspect that you had trouble bolting the engine up to the transmission and did the old (the bolts will pull it up trick) You did didn't you! Go on stand there and say OK! OK! Then once you have finished kicking yourself remove the transmission and have the front pump repaired because when you did the bolts up the convertor was not ingaged into the pump gear. This gear is now brocken incase you were wondering but it is quite fixable by a transmission shop. The oil coming out of the breather is beacuse the pump can no longer fill the convertor or cooler so all the oil is in the case! Don'y feal bad you Number 14 for this month alone.

have you got ford AOD trannies in stock and if so how much? even a working second hand one will do. thanks.
An outright Standard fully reco unit is $2200 and our outright Extreme Stage II Transmissions with Kilm Bronzed and Micro Balanced Convertor is $3700 inc gst + freight if required.

I have a 3.8 1996 VS Commodore Acclaim & would like to make the gear changes a bit more positive.The car is used for the towing a car trailer occasionaly & is fitted with a trans cooler.Is a "Shift Kit" avalable for this transmission? Regards Warren
Yes we have a Stage II shift kit that works very well in the VS V6. The shift kit is $595.00 fully fitted inc gst and transmission service or $395.00 inc gst in box but I don't think that you should try and fit it yourself as it is an extremely difficult kit to fit.

How can you know if a veicle's transmissions is good or not.
Get your local mechanic to take the car for a road test. Check to see if the transmission has been serviced regualy and make sure the transmission oil is nice and bright red. If the transmission has not been serviced for a couple of years or more then you can expect the oil to be brown in collour. This doesn't mean that the transmission is damaged just that it will need a service

I have a 1993 nissan patrol ,i would like to add some engine modifications to it but i would like to know if my automatic transmission can deal with the power. I also wanted to know if i can turn my transmission to heavyduty for extreme desert riding. thanx
The transmission it's self is an incredibly strong transmission but the valve body calibrations will need to be changed. We have an Extreme Stage II Recalibrated Fully Rebuilt Valve Body available for $795.99 Aus + freight if required. We are currently running this transmission is mud racing and cross country safari's events. The transmission will hold 350Kw with the valve body and 175Kw with out.

maybe you can help me out with this i have a 89 bronco that fuel injected with a aod trans in it. would i be able to swap it to a c6. im wondering if it would screw with the computer since the aods computerized. Thank a lot for the help
The AOD is not computerised. But the E4OD is. You can put the C6 in but why would you. The C6 is a stronger box but the AOD can be built quite strong and has an overdrive that the C6 does not.

I own a 1992 Landcruiser with an 4speed auto (not electronic overdrive).I am going to fit a 6.5 litre turbo diesel. Do you do an extreme gearbox for this model and how much? Thanks.....Kim.
Yes we do have an Extreme transmission for the 1992 Landcruiser. The cost of the A440 4 speed transmission with Deisel Govener Unit, Super Low Stall Extreme Kilm Bronzed Convertor and Stage II Recalibrated Extreme Valve Body is $4460.00 inc gst to build your unit + Freight if required. The Valve Body, Low Stall Convertor and Diesel Govener Unit is an Absulut Must when fitting the 6.5 Litre Diesel

I have a LX torana with a 173 in it.It has been converted to gas only.My problem is that when i am slowing down and the gearbox is making a change from drive to second then first it makes a CLUNK!!! as it goes into the lower gear.Is this going to require a new gearbox or is it an easy fix.Thanks if you can help with this.Deon
A simple service and a change of the low speed timing valve spring will solve this problem. will need to be done by a transmission shop as it is a little tricky although simple to us.

Hi Orto I am interested in swapping the TH350 trans in our VC Brock Commodore for a later TH700 4 speed unit.Is this a difficult transplant? I am aware that the tailshaft will have to be modified and a new crossmember and speedo cable will be necessary.What price are welooking for the Th700 transmission supplied?
The T/350 to T700 conversion is one of the easiest to do. You have already done your home work and have most of it in hand. The cost of a fully reco T/700 outright with reco convertor and warranty comes to $2200.00 inc gst Not Fitted. We have a stage II Shift kit and heavy duty internal components that will almost double the strength of your transmission for an extra $500 inc gst or you can go for a full blown Extreme Fully Blueprinted Stage II Transmission that comes with Kilm bronzed micro Balanced Convertor for $3700.00 inc gst Outright

Orto,I have an 89 240sx, I am putting a 350 in,I have already put the motor in and I am now fixing to get to the hard patr,the trani and rear end,the 350 dynos at 415 horses and 475 foot lbs of tourqe,what trani and rearend whould you suggest? I know its not gonna be an easy task,but I figured youd know a trani that could hold the power and be somewhat small
Either an Extreme Fully Blue Printed Stage II T/700 or an Fully Reco stage II T/350 with 500 Hp kit added. Both of these transmissions will do well, the T/350 is a 3 speed transmission while the T/700 is a 4 speed with overdrive.

Hi, I have a magna 95 which has done over 200000kms, the car drives well but when stationary with the gear in drive or reverse it vibrates alot, can this be repaired or do I have to replace the transmission. Can you give me a price. Thanks Chau
There is nothing wrong with the transmission. The Magna suffers from violent vibrations while stand still in gear if the engine is out of tune. An engine tune up will fix this.

Hi, I have been hearing some things about shift kits. I have an auto VR V6 commodore and have been told that a shift kit will improve performance, durability and shifting in my car. Is a shift kit a worthwhile purchase? What are the pros and cons of a shift kit? thanks a lot Sean
it all comes down to how firm you like your transmission to shift. It is true that a sharper shifting box will last longer because it eliminates most of the slipping between gears and can boast the overall pressure in the transmission giving you more clamping power and more lube flow.

i am building a blown 350 in a tubbed torana hacthback it will have approx 550-600 flywheel horsepower the car was fitted with a t350, can you build the t350 to take this much horsepower or should i go for a powerglide or t400 the car will be street driven and some track work.Please send me some prices as well including freight to Sydney. Thanks Dean.
Our Extreme Fully Blue Printed Stage II T/350 Transmission with Kilm Bronzed and Micro Balanced Convertor will do the trick nicely.

Can a 4 Speed auto go into a VK Commodore behind a 308 running 2.60 diff if so how much would it cost. Thank you Allan
Fitted price for the T/700 4 Speed is $3500.00 inc gst if your car is already an Automatic. If not add another $595.00 inc gst if Manual.

Hello Orto, I have a 700R4 in a 71 Chevy P/U. I bought a TV Cable bracket from Bowtie Overdrives and it is supposed to operate the throttle valve with the proper relationship to the carb linkage. When I adjust the cable to be WOT the same time the carb is WOT my shift points are very low (2nd 8mph/1200 RPM-3rd 16mph/1600 RPM-4th 32mph/1800RPM). The park gear idle pressure at this point is 70 psi. If I adjust the cable further my shift points get better and I can even get them to normal shift points. Idle pressure is 110 psi when adjusted to normal shift points (seems high to me). Everytime I push the accelerator to the floor the cable re-adjusts itself to the WOT point with the low shift points. Is this problem something inside the transmission or is it with the bracket adjustment. I have come up with a solution by adjusting the cable to WOT and putting a slip lock on the cable to keep the cable from returning to it's idle position, but I would rather fix the problem with the transmission if there is one. Thank you for any info you can provide.
Put a T/700 V6 Governor in the transmission replacing the V8 unit. This will give later shift points without you having to raise the pressure's via the cable. Very easy to do as the governor is behind the round bowl looking cap on the drivers side if your in the U.S and the Passengers side in your in Australia, New Zealand.

Dear Orto I have a 1985 Toyota Landcruiser and have had a 6.5 Chev Turbo Diesel fitted with a Turbo 700 gearbox. Is that a good box to use? I was wondering if their is some way the lock up can be used without the computer. The person that fitted the box has a manual switch fitted, however that is a nuisance having to change it each time. He is going to fit another switch inside the box so I don't have to worry about it when changing down. It would be good if it can be done automatically. I am having a problem with the motor overheating. It is alright when empty but does not like being loaded. Not sure if you can help there. Hope you can help. Regards Nelson.
Main problem is usually a too high convertor stall speed unsuited to the 6.5 l diesel,convertor needs to be lowstalled to assist in heat problem. lock-up can be operated hydraulicly depending on the valvebody as some have a shift valve that can be modified to do so although lock-up should not operate in 1st gear as it needs 2nd gear signal oil to apply regardless of electrical application.

Hello Orto, It gives me great confidence to be able to see the type of work that you guys would go into of rebuilding a T700, Great stuff! I was just wondering whether you could help me with some specifications on the T700 kickdown cable configuration. I've already burned out one transmission due to incorrect setting and wouldn't want to repeat that again... To fill you in about my car setup, I have a Jaguar XJ6 with a Chev 400 small block and a T700 box (kick down cable type) and currently running on straight gas with the GasResearch 4 barrel single throttle bodies system. I have contacted numerous professional people regarding the specs or whether there is a kit that is compatible for my car. After the day Iíve found out that I need to obtain the exact measurements between the kick-down cable to the throttle when itís closed and when itís W.O.T. Iíve been told that a V8 VN Commodore might be compatible. Would you be able to provide me with this information or do you have anything that you sell that could help me rectify this problem? Kind Regards, Tony.
Thanks for your words of encouragement. Gas research throttle bodies can be difficult to set up. The cable pivot point should be 30mmm from the throttle shaft and start about 45 degrees at idle, set the cable at full extention at wide open throttle and adjust so at light throttle as soon as the 1-2 shift occurs you get a 2-1 downshift when yuo floor it through kickdown. Adjust for comfort as tyre size and diff ratio can have a marked effect.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on the durability/reliability of Toyota's A442F transmission (used in the US landcruiser from 1993-1994/95) and the A343F that replaced it for 1995-97. Many people have noticed that Toyota only changed the tranny to the A343F in the US, and left the A442F in other countries. Can you speculate as to why this was done (was it cost-saving?) In any case, what is your opinion on each of these trannies? What are the pros and cons of each and, in your opinion, which will hold up longer? Thanks! Vik
Both the A442F and A343F transmissions is capable of holding 450K/W of power when fitted with an Extreme Stage II Blue Print Valve Body. These valve bodies are the direct result of a development program that was introduced for the Extreme Fully Blue Printed Landcruiser transmission range. The valve body is the same unit that was developed for that unit. The Valve Body can be brought separately for $795.00 Australian but is sold as a change over unit with a deposit being charged until the old valve body is returned. I don't know why the A442F was replaced with the A343F but if I was to guess I would say weight ( both dead weight and centrifugal weight ), The smaller 2.7 and 3.4 litre Landcruiser Prado engine's are just to small for the A442F heavy weight. The A442F is much larger than the new design and for this same reason I would say that the older A442F transmissions is a little stronger.

How do you guys build a c6 to handle 600 hp? My auto has been rebuilt several times by different people and it keeps shi#ing itself. It died again yesterday, it has lost 2nd gear, and the auto guy thinks it may have burnt the band out. It has only done approx 250 klms and has been breathing heavy (blowing oil out the breather) since it was built. The car is a ZC fairlane, weighs approx 4000 lbs the engine is a 460 big block & should make approx 620 hp but is rather tourquey. The auto has a 3800 stall convertor (thats where the cam starts to work) and is shifted at 7000 rpm. The auto has a tci full manual, reverse pattern, trans brake valve body. it has been machined to fit extra clutches where possible. One of the clutch drums (I think high reverse) has a small hole in it to stop it being centrifically applied, which in the past would melt the clutch pack together. It uses dexron 3 oil. It runs two trans coolers, one of them has a fan on it, and the operating temps gets up to 190-210 degrees. I have heard of an "r" type servo assembly which is larger in area and helps 2nd and 3rd gear changes, have you heard of this and do you stock one? I have also heard of people driling holes in the drum where the band applys (similar to a disc rotor) to help get the oil to escape when the band is applying, to get it to apply quicker. Any help appreciated. Mick
Unfortunatly the C6 will not hold 600Hp very well. Although a large auto they are very pron to case twist in all high Hp applications witch inturn causes the valves to jam in the valve body. A Powerglide is going to the only thing that is going to work well and in the long run will work out cheaper. You will need an adaptor plate for the front of the transmission and will need to change a few things to get it in but it's the only way out. The C6 transmission handled far less punishment than it's smaller brother the C4.

Looking for a transmission to couple to a Cummins 6BT. AT545?, Dodge Ram 4 speed? Your comments please. Thanks Geoff
Depends very much on what you intend to do with the engine and transmission in the first place. If your towing massive amounts of weight the Allison for sure. The Dodge Rams 4 Speed is in fact an electronic transmission that will require a stand alone computer system and wiring harness so it would not be my first pick. If it has to be a 4 speed and your not towing or carrying a huge amount of weight then I would go for the 4L80E 4 Speed Chevy Transmission that is also an electronic transmission but can be modified to work without the computer or any supporting wiring, but it would become a full manual shift. We do these transmissions here at Wholesale for a lot of 4 wheel drives and Motor Homes.

I'm from the US, found your site by accident,am very impressed. My problem is a Ford Torino with with a mild 460 cu in engine, and c-6 trans., 2800 stall converter, when first installed had problems with trans upshifting too quickly (low rpms) under normal driving conditions. I changed the vacuum modulator now the upshifts are acceptable during normal driving and under hard acceleration, my problem now is downshifts, at any speed under about 40 mph the trans seems to downshift properly but will not downshift automatically at speeds greater than 40 mph, the down shift rod is adjusted properly, what can be my problem?
Under 40kmph you have part - throttle downshift controlled by the vac modulator ,over 40km downshift is controlled solely by the kickdown lever. Either it is not adjusted properly, you,re not getting full throttle at the carby or there is a problem in the valvebody with the kickdown valve assembly.

I am installing a chev 454 BB in my Toyota Landcruiser tray back. What auto trans would you recomend to go with the torque of the big 454? also the truck has a set of 4:7:1 low range transfercase gears for rockcrawling and I need the box to be able to idle real low wiyhout stalling how would be the best way to acheive this? The truck runs 38" tires.
We are having a lot of success with the factory 4 speed automatic transmission with both our Extreme Stage II Valve Bodies and Extreme Kilm Bronzed Micro Balanced Convertors. Will handle the big block Chevy engine easily. We have rated this set up to 350Kw ( 470Hp ). We also have an 450kw unit ( 605Hp ) but this involves rebuilding the transmission into a full spec Extreme. See latest news on this web site for write up on the Extreme Landcruiser Valve Bodies.

I have a trimatic gearbox, that will only shift up on high revs or speed, any ideas please
Check that the top and bottom vac hoses are on and not restricted. Disconnect the kickdown wire to ensure the switch on the pedal isn't stuck on. Failing this it is probably terminal.

I have a rebuilt (blue) converter for a 700R4. I don't know if it is a lockup converter or not. The markings on the converter are written in black marker and it says "42HS" and a label that says "4842HS". So what do you think it is? Can I tell from looking at the converter, not the labels, if it is a lockup converter? One more question, do you have a TV cable adjustment procedure for a 700R4? Thanks, geo
Sounds like it has been rebuilt anyway. The only real way to tell is by the weight, there is a big difference in the two. Find an original and compare. best way to adjust cable is by feel. Adjust it so it is at max throw at full throttle ,then adjust it so that at very light throttle as it changes into 2nd imediately floor it and it should change back to first, Make the cable tighter to make it more responsive , looser to make it less responsive.

I own an AUTOMATIC VL TURBO and am considering converting it to a Supra 5 speed manual gearbox. I was wondering what you would reccommend.
Installing our Extreme Stage II Fully Blue Printed VL Turbo Automatic Transmission. Have done this before and they work great on the quater mile too. Costs about $3465.00 inc gst Fitted or $3300.00 inc gst change over not fitted. Sorry I can't help you with the manual conversion.

hello gents.. i have a 78 volvo and regularly race my friends from the bowling club to the ringwood rsl on pension day.my question is as follows...when i plant my foot the automatic transmission squeels really loudly,the volvo pauses for 3-4 seconds and then it takes off...after the black smoke and sparks clear murphy who drives a rt40 corona still has the jump on me.how do i get the swedish bit of brilliance to launch harder?At about 30mph(speeding makes me feel young)i get a funny burning smell, what would that be?(mabel tells me its my underwear because im speeding)he he... i wanna beat that old fool so please help.... ps.it took me 2 hours to type this so please answer my questions.my pension doesnt allow me to have a phone so please help me thank you in advance maxim p. waterer
Sounds like a driver error. Try lifting your foot a little as it sounds like you are getting too much wheel spin out of the hole ,A volvo can be deceivingly powerful too the unsuspecting driver. As a back-up plan feed murphy two pots and remove two spark plug leads from the corona this should have the desired result. Good Luck!

Orto do you have a auto computer for a 4/91 TR Magna 4cyl inj 3 plugs on the computer standard is fine I have no exchange if you have one how much. Thanks
Sorry these computers are rare. Very common for them to failure. I have had one repaired once ,but it failed not long after. I would strongly suggest buying one new unless you are selling the car. Mitsubishi want a small fortune but it is the only way to guarantee a fix and they know it. Also wreckers know what they cost and i refuse to pay $500-$600 for something that will undoubtably fail.

I require a shift improvement kit for a GM180 auto transmission fitted to a 1985 Rover 3.5 V8 SD1 saloon. I believe that the GM180(TH) transmission (made in Strasburg, used in many Opel cars) is very similar to the 3L30 in the USA and the Trimatic used in Holdens in Australia. Do you know just how similar the GM180 is to the Trimatic? How and where can I buy a Trimatic shift kit (stage 2? B&M? Trimatic not listed on US sites) to take a chance and try? Any help will be much appreciated. Best regards, Tim Gowing
The trans you metion is in fact a GM TH180 or Trimatic . Rover in their wisdom use a series 1 type that ceased production in the us and aust in the 1970's. Series 2 onwards have electric kickdown and a different gearset. All rovers I have driven are noisy and clunky and this is normal for that series. No shift kits are available to my knowledge, Here in Australia we do our own mods during a rebuild to obtain the required result quite successfully. Trimatics were fitted in holdens in Australia from the late 60's up until around 1986. Once they got them right in the last model they stopped using them and went to a 4spd.

What I need some advice here guys as I have been building a Holden Torana with 350Chev and T350 Gbox for 18months. The machine has a 10 1/2 B&M Flexpate and B&M Holeshot Converter. On initial startup a large bang was heard and drive was lost. After many problems that the machanics had getting this to run they found the B&M flexpate did not give enough end play for the converter on install. The gearbox was removed and dismantled and checked and converter were all ok. Then another second hand flexplate was used that I noticed had many odd holes in it as if it were externally balanced. I questioned this with the guys as the motor had been internally balanced and this is why I opted initially for new B&M. After some dyno runs a road test was done and a big vibration was felt. To cut a long short with additional dyno runs it was thought the rear end was at fault as we had these guys also put in a whole new LSD rear end. They sent the car to the diff guys that say they thought there was a driveline alignment problem so they put some spacer somewhere and when they put in reverse to test drive they had no drive. I get a phone call today to say the bellhousing is cracked and this is the cause of the vibration. My point is I think the crack has been caused by whatever has been causing the vibration and not the later. Can you tell me in your expert opinion what can cause this when we know the Gbox was checked and pulled apart prior to the many Dyno's. I forgot to mention that on one of the Dyno's at 6,500 RPM sparks flew out of the bottom of the car and this was found to be the crank balance or flexplate hitting the Flexplate inspection cover. This was cut away to give more room. Can this be caused by a flexplate out of balance and throwing out at max RPM. I would really appreciate your help Regards, Norm Pettigrew
What a nightmare! First start by disconnecting the convertor and check it floats in and out of the pump with clearance.Then run the motor with it disconnected and not spining,if the vibration is still there then it must be related to the engine or flexplate. If gone then the convertor is the cause. If you have a driveline vibration ,certainly it may crack the bellhousing also check that both engine dowels are in the motor as these are critical for correct alignment.As well as making sure the bellhousing bolts are also tight. I Have no doubt it will be something simple thats been overlooked.

MY toyota4runner has no power to start and go once start moving it will run ok but does not seam shifting. timing belti and all setting ok. overdrive ligt blinking I put two qts.lucas and other thiker oil that was recomended by a proffecinal mec. what is wrong with my truck?
If the o/d light is flashing you have an electrical fault.The ecu needs to be scanned to access the codes to find and rectify the fault. When the computer finds a fault it stores the fault in memory and locks the vehicle in 3rd gear until it is rectified,Hence the lose of power.

I drive a Magna TR 1992 wagon. Why does the auto thump hard on down shift, is this a comon problem with these auot's. Can this problem be fixed, and how much would it cost by your company, to resolve this problem. Many thanks.....
It could just need a service and adjustment approx $150 or a common problem is that the teflon rings and seals shrink causing shift problems ,if this is the case a rebuild is required approx cost$1885 fitted.

This is a great web page! I have a problem with my 1994 1800 Laser Auto. Unfortunately the problem isn't with the transmission:-) It's with the EFI - a severe flat spot when you accelerate. Do you know of any sites similar to yours that might be able to help with this? I've spent over $400 on this at an "EFI specialist" to no avail - SOMEONE must know the answer!
I don't know of any web site that handles your problems but if your in Australia then E-mail me again telling where you are and I will put you onto the right people in your own part of the world.

orto, I have a VR V6 commodore and I would like to pull out the V6 and replace it with a carby V8. My question(s) are will the V6 trans handle the extra power and how do I get the trans to change as im led to believe the trans uses info from the motor to change the gears. Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks
The V6 transmission will not bolt up to the Engine although it would handle the H/P as the internals are almost identical. The ECU would have to be changed to the V8 unit to make either the V6 or V8 transmissions work.

will a C4 trans taken from a ford 351c V8 bolt straight up to a 302w V8 or is the bellhousing bolt pattern different.
As long as you use the same bell housing, Drive plate and sandwich plate that fits between the engine and transmission then yes they do fit. But if you try to use a drive plate or something from the Windsor instead of the Cleveland then it will not fit, they are a matched set.

I own a 87 VL commodore non-turbo and was interested in a stage 2 shift kit for street and strip. Could you please give me a price on a suitable kit and would this kit still shift automatically if left in drive. Also would you recomend a different stall convertor and if so how much woul this cost. My car still has originall cam and so far the only mods are exhaust and air cleaner. Any information would be helpfull.
Your Convertor will do fine and the Stage II Extreme Valve Body for this unit is $595.00 inc gst Change Over not fitted or $695.00 inc gst fitted

I will try and make it short orto. Brief history: I recently puchest a 93 4.2 petrol Nissan Patrol 130000 kms and the auto box felt a little lazy but I have never owned an auto before see I could not be sure. The tryes on it were 265/60/16 (smaller the standard and very bald) I replaced them with 305/70/16. Now it feels extra lazy so I took it to the local trani guy for a service to find out that it was on its way out because he beleives it had never been serviced. So my questions to you are 1.how much to get it overhauled + shiping to Sydney 2.will the increase in tyre size wear out standard trany quicker. 3.would one of your EXTREME boxes last longer. 4.how much for an EXTREME make over on my auto + shipping to sydney 5.with the lock up converter can a switch be fitted to lock it when offroad for steep down hill decents. thanks orto. Top web site you should be proud.
Our Extreme Nissan Patrol Transmission and Extreme Valve Body will last Much longer than the STD units, That's why they were built in the first place. The cost of the Extreme Patrol unit is $4120.00 inc gst and round trip freight to Sydney and back is $80.00 inc gst. The tyre size will have no impact on the Extreme Transmission or Extreme Valve Body. The Extreme Transmission will handle well over triple the engine power. We also sell the Extreme Valve Body as a separate unit that can be bolted straight on to a standard transmission, This in it's self makes a huge difference to this transmission. But if your transmission is buggered then it would pay to at least overhaul the transmission and add the Extreme Valve Body during this rebuild. This unit costs $2865.00 inc gst plus the before mentioned freight Not Fitted. I will look into the lock up for you.

I'm sticking a done up 186/208 in my EJ Ute. What size stall converter would you recommend and what would be recommended for my Trimatic, or is it ok to run standard....
Your Trimatic will do fine in the EH but you can trick them up if you find the need to do so. A 4 cly Star Fire and Gemini convertors will bolt straight in and give you about a 2800 stall convertor. It would however be best to get the convertor reconditioned and Kilm Bronzed at the same time or the convertor might suffer a short life span. Have done this trick a few times and they go GREAT. We can do the convertor if you wish!

Hi I have a series 1 AU Falcon Futura 6 cylinder and I have been told to put a 2000 rpm hi-stall on it for better take off. is this true and how much does it cost, fitted?
You already have a convertor that stalls to 2000 rpm, Maybe 1800 if the engine tune is a bit down. The AU convertor is a great litle convertor that can handle quite a lot in standared trim. And if you stalled it any futher you would probably set the fail safe off in the computer as it is one of the only ECU's that has a learning mode. This ECU is the thorn in my side at the moment as we have made an Extreme Stage II Valve body for this unit but the ECU keeps trying to soften the shifts on us. BUT we now have one of our tech's trying a new mod on the computer as we spea k.

Hi Orto, is my question about the Magna V6 tranny not able to be answered? To recap, with the engine idling and tranny in D the BCSV solenoid chatters. I know the solenoids are supposed to make a noise when cold but this doesn`t stop even when hot. Reading the voltage at the connector (unplugged) these solenoids show as follows DCCSV = 10.67v BCSV = 4.83v SCSV A = 9.69v SCSV B = 9.69v The point is the tranny works OK, usualy very smooth but with an occasional rough change so I don`t know if the problem is Mechanical or Electrical. Hoping you could help, Thanks, Don Sharpe
I don't beleave that the problem is mechanical and the noise is normal hot or cold but I would like to know how you got a power reading from the Solenoids if you had them unpluged??. You could have a TPS problem. Have you checked your in going TPS voltage against the out going. I can fax you a voltage chart that also explains how to check for this if you want.

Hi lads, To change the rear main seal on a EB falcon 4 speed auto do you have to remove the external housing. Thanks for great site Joel.
The Extention housing seal can be replaced by removing the tail shaft only. But if you meant the rear main seal on the engine then the whole transmission would need to be removed and replaced.

We've got a 100 series Cruiser Auto. Looking to replace the box once it blows up with one of your Extreme boxes. We do a lot of hard offroad and tripping around Aus. Just wanted to get an idea of the procedure when it dies (managed to break most everything else on the vehicle already). Do we send you our box and you rebuild it, or can we purchase one off the rack, and if so what are the comparative prices (roughly). Also is the lock-up torque converter still used in the rebuilt box, and if not can it be? Thanks for you help. TR
Our Extreme 80-100 series landcruisers and Nissin Patrols are all avaliable as a Change Over or do your own transmissions and Valve Bodies. Some customers like to get he same unit back and that makes sense to me. Same job is done to both and their is no price differance between them. The Extreme Kilm Bronzed Convertor retains it's lock up unit.

Hi Orto -A great website vey interesting !! I am in the UK and would just like to ask a few questions on the A442F tranny please. Is changing the oil and filter a must on a standard A442F? Mine has done 130K miles still works well - I never tow. I change the tranny pan oil every 4K miles but never fully flush and change filter. Some folks seem to get tranny problems for some reason after they do this job. Is a standard A442F generally robust? What are the usual signs of old age on these units? Finally how much would you say this unit weighs would removal require the use of a four post lift and substantial tranny jack? Just interested. Thanks a lot Martin Lee
A great transmission but a crap valve body. We recallibrate these valve bodies all the time. The new Extreme Stage II valve body can handle more the twice the engine power. We use 2 transmission stands when removing the transmision while the car is on a four poster but a large garge jack will hadle it if your on the ground. The transmission weighs about 90 Kg but with the transfer case still attached it weighs about 130kg. These transmissions love a good service and will always resond to it in a small way. Once every year without fail.

In US cars trucks and vans from 1980 to about 92 they used an AOD trsnsmission is there a difference between the truck and van transmissions and the cars or can they be exchanged without problems. Thank you for your time.
While their are minor differances thay can for the most part be interchanged. I would watch the extention housings and out put shaft for these differances. Lincon and truck transmissions are the strongest.

Hi Orto, I have a VN comm. that I have recently changed the diff gearing to 3.7:1 is there a gear in the T/700 to change or an adapter so I can get the speedo to indcate correctly. Thankyou.
You will need to change both the Drive gear thats on the back of the out put shaft and possably the driven gear on the end of the speedo gear. If it's a speed sensor unit then you will need to recallibrate the speedo unit. Ringwood speedometer services can fix both for you. So can your local Transmission shop to if thay try hard enough.

Why does my 1983 suburban clunk when I put it in drive or switch to reverse. It's a new T/700 transmisson.
Hi idle speed, Diff back lash, Worn uni's, Kick down cable set to tight. Start with the idle speed and the Kick down cable and go from their. But I bet it's in the first two.

T/350 trans with lock up torque converter, I manually shifted from 2nd to drive and when it changed gear it would not pull, in any gear. i disassembled tranny after i pulled it out of the truck. all the steels and clutches are all good, bushing ect. 1 of the 2 bolts holding the filter had come out and trash had gathered in the hole. I found the torque converter had a piece broke inside on the spine that excepts the stator shaft. Got a new torque converter and reinstalled tranny. well now it pulls fine BUT it does not want to change from 1st to 2nd gears I have to wind the engine up pretty high before it changes, and then it changes to drive, I can pull it down to 2nd from drive and it goes in alright. I didn't go into the valve body when I was in the tranny. Do you think maybe I got trash in the valve boby, and if so what would you recomend? thank you .
2nd gear isn't working. Thats why you have a late gear change and then a 1-3 shift. You are still getting a manuel down change into second because the front band is used, the band is not used on the up shifts. So now we need to find out why the Intermaidiate cluch pack ( 2nd ) isn't working. This is the clutch pack that is closest to the pump. It is possible that the valve body has a stuck valve but I would have thought that if this was the case because it would have done it before. I am starting to beleave that you have built this problem in yourself, makes it very hard as I now have to come up with something that you could have done during rebuild. Did you use the right valve body gaskets??, Did your pump assembley have a small valve and spring that sits between the 2 pump halves and if it did was it put back in??, Are all the check Balls in??,

Hi, I have a VK commodore (6 cyl Black motor) and was wondering if it was possible to put a 4 speed auto (from a VN ?)behind it instead of the tri-matic. Regards, Mark Allen Ringwood, Aust
Yes we do have a kit that will allow the 4 speed VN or VP V6 transmission to bolt behind the Holden straight 6 engine. We have done this a few times before and even had it in one of our own company cars, went very well. Super low first gear and 30% overdriven in top. A great all rounder. P.S Where only a stone throw from you in Bayswater.

I own a 74 2 door range rover with a 4 speed manual, and overdrive unit. I am wanting to install a 350 chev and some kind of auto box to match. I know that the stock rover boxes are the ZF Auto's; but how well will they handle 400hp? Do you know of any other auto boxes that would be a good fit? I would want something with a shift kit installed. Aslo i would need a adapter kit. Can you help me out here 'Orto Man'? Cheers, Peter Apalais Withcott, Qld
The Chevy T/700 4 speed transmission will handle the power no problems if built right, but the convertion will cost a litle bit. We can handle the conversion kit and parts for you. well suited to the engine that you are going to use.

Orto, I have a '90 Mustang 5.0L HO w AOD installed in a 200 series Volvo. I experience a fairly severe vibration above 35-40 MPH. At first I thought it to be a driveshaft problem, but now I believe it is either the transmission or the torque converter. It happens at about the time the converter should lock up. How can I determine exactly what the problem is so I'm not replacing good parts or leaving broken or worn parts in the trans? Thanks TR Conn
Does the car vibrate if you rev the engine to the same RPM while the transmission is in park and the car is standing still. This will tell you if the vibation is from the transmission to the wheels or from the fan belts to the convertor. If the vibation is still there while in park and at the same rev rate, this would meen that it is not the lock up, over drive or the rast of the drive line. It is more likely to be the converrtor out of ballance for some reason. You can unbolt the convertor and push it back and start the car up and see if it is still there, if it is then we are now in the enigne, if it has gone then it is the convertor. Stay with me here!! If I am on the wronge track and the transmission only shudders into lock up then you will need to possibly change the convertor, but I would like to hear the out come of these tests first before you run off spending any money.

I have a 1995 VX turbo diesel 4 Speed Automatic ( HDJ 80R )I replaced the 12V diesel engine with a 6 Litre Turbo diesel intercooled Mercedes benz engine of 180 kw @ 2600 rpm & a torgue curve that variate from 595 nm @1300 rpm, 706 nm @ 2000 rpm and 695 nm @ 2600 rpm, rpm peak is @ 2950. Would your Extreme kit in my gearbox do the trick for me. If so what is the price of the kit and would you courier it to me in south Africa. Thanks Martin Coetzee
The Extreme Valve Body kit that you see in our news page is the exact kit that you will need to sort out your transmission ( A442F ). We have used this kit in all types of conversions and they all do very well. We have exported this valve body kit and complete Extreme transmissions all over the world and have always put a large smile on our custmers faces. The kit cost $795 Aus plus round trip freight, we will only recalibrate YOUR valve body or transmission. There are no local taxes in Australia as it is an export to South Africa.

I have an HR Holden and have replaced the 3 speed manual with a trimatic from an LJ Torana. The car has driveline vibration very much like a driveshaft out of balance, however it is engine speed related, around 3000 rpm in all gears & neutral. I have dropped the rear crossmember off & supported the box on a jack, & the vibes have gone. I have also tried another mount, to no avail. Is there a softer mount available, or could it be the trans? The motor was fine with the manual.Thanks.
Must have something to do with the mount. Check that the lower mount bolts are not too long and bottoming out on the trans as this will cause exssesive noise and vibration.

Thankyou for your advice on my EB Falcon 4 speed auto. Changed the S5 solonide, No more thumping gear changes. However, the changes (Especially 1 to 2) get softer as the unit gets hot, as it did before. Feels like a slight power loss during the change, the motor is not raceing during change whitch is about half a second long. Could it be an oil pressure problem, would any additives help? Thanks, David Adelaide SA.
Sounds like you may have a leaking shift solenoidYou need to have the solenoids bench tested.Or just replace them!

I have a GM 6.2 na diesel in 1985 LandCruiser with an A440F transmission. I have also had the same tranny behind a 308 Holden in an older FJ55 Cruiser. In both vehicles the tranny felt/feels like it is "wasting" the power & torque of the V8's. Also I have had overheating problems with the trannies. My tranny shop has attempted to lower the stall speed of the diesel's converter...seems to be better. What I think I want is to be able to manually control all gear changes and the lock up converter. My tranny shop's one attempt at this was not successful. What do you advise? It is very encouraging to read that you have been developing these transmissions...so far the people I trust have advised to stick with the Toyota auto rather than go the T700 path. Thanks.
We are currently developing a convertor to suit this problem as the A440F and A442F transmission have a convertor that has an outer diameter that is just to small for the V8 conversions resulting in a high stall convertor. We are trying to find someone with one of these adaptor kits to help sort out the overall length of the convertor. We already have a convertor in mind for these adaptations. I'm not a big fan of the full manual transmission as it can have long term reliability problems, great if your on a race track but no good if your wanting more than 60,000 Km out of your transmission.

vn commodore 1991 6 cyclinder could you please tell me where the governor value is on the transmission and if possible show me a diagram my transmission is going in reverse drive but not changindg gear when driving i was advised to clean this value but cannot find it thanks
You will find the governor behind a dome cover on the passenger side rear of the trans. Remove the cover and the assembly simply spins out,also check the driven gear that turns it!

I have a query regarding my vehicle, a 1992 BMW E36 318i. I wanted to ask here before taking my car to a dealership or mechanic because frankly I don't know much about mechanics and hopefully I can go to them with a little background information regarding my problem so I don't get ripped off by them. My car runs fine most of the time but every now and again when I'm driving at or below 40km/hr the car seems to struggle and loose power so that when I press the pedal to accelarate the RPM needle surges from around 1500RPM's to 3000-4000RPM's without accelerating the car (i.e it remains at the constan speed of 40km/h), this last for a about 3-4 seconds until the car reaches the 4000rpm's and then the gear seems to kick in and the RPM's shift back to normal and its normal driving after that. This normally happens at hill crests or approaching hills or at the base of hills that is going down hill. I had an oil change 2 months ago and a transmission oil change a month ago. Ever since I had the transmission oil changed the problem has been lesser only happening once in a while. In your experience have you come accross anything like this before? and what parts would you recomend having looked at or replacing? My transmission is automatic and has a factory ZF automatic aluminium gear box. I know its a sketchy description of the problem and in reality you would have to drive it and see for yourself but any guidance or suggestion you may have would be extremely appreciated. Thank you
Hi Gustavo, Sounds like a slipping clutch, My suggestion is to add 1 Litre of trans fluid and see what happens as it sounds like low oil level. I have come across a few bmws that dont seem to read right on the dipstick. If that doesnt fix it then you may have terminal clutch damage.

Hi Orto, I own a HX Holden Premier 202 with trimatic transmission. My reverse gear has now got a 2 second delay before engaging and I believe it won't be too long before I don't have any reverse gear at all. Is there an adjustment or procedure to enable the reverse gear to be instantly responsive when I shift into reverse? If not, is there a repair procedure where I can overcome this 2 second delay? Looking forward to your answers. Kind Regards BAZ
Your timatic has a common problem.The reverse clutch plates on a trimatic tend to flake off and cause high clutch clearance that causes the delay.There is no adjustment,the trans will require a teardown and probable rebuild. Should the material block the filter you will lose gears and cause other damage. rebuild cost $680 fitted.

I have a Commodore VS Series 11, Acclaim sedan, auto trans. This morning I discovered it would not go into reverse. At the same time, there is a whirring noise that rises and falls in pitch in line with engine revs. It still has forward gears. Driving around the block I found: Whirring noise in first gear. Reluctant to change gear. Will change if you get a bit of speed up (say 40 ks) and lift the throttle. The transmission then shifts into 2nd gear and the whirring noise stops. Fluid level is ok, but looks darker than usual. My son reported that yesterday it made a loud thumping noise when changing gears at higher speeds. Time for an overhaul, or could it be something simple?
Does it have all fwrd gears? A common fault for rev failure is a broken driveshell. Either way a no rev condition can only be retified by an overhaul or change over unit costing $1895.00 fitted with a 2yr unlimited km warranty.

Hi orto, Just a quick question I pulled my valve body off my Trimatic to drill the two holes to 3/16" to make it shift harder and one ball bearing fell out but I don't know were it goes. Please help
Check the plate and you will see the wear marks from the balls. One goes at the front of the case in a bathtub in the middle, the other on the drivers side half way up on the edge. Not all Trimatics have the second ball , but all must have the first.

I have a 1997 VS Commodore series 2 four speed automatic. A noticeable "miss" occurs when the motor goes under load in the 1800-2000 rev range, particularly in cruise control mode or when being driven lightly. There is a definite thump through the transmission. The engine management system checks out ok. The mechanic has suggested that it may be due to an "o" ring in the gearbox which should be replaced during a gearbox service. If the car is pushed a bit harder the "miss" does not seem to be obvious. Any comments on this diagnosis?? Thanks. John Paull
You may have a lock-up convertor shudder, though I doubt that a o,ring is the cause, a complete oil flush may be worth while and refill with dextron 3, if that fails you may require a rebuild. Also you may have an engine miss the ECU can't diagnos, if you have a bad plug lead the engine will miss on two cylinders at once causing a severe thump, usually at low revs under load. Have the plugs and leads replaced and have a trans specialist drive the car.

I am having a time with a 1986 full size bronco. It had EFI from the factory (late production date) I have since installed a 302 with a carb. I have since then wore the 302 out. Now I have built a real sweet 351w and all is well. The problem is: The truck will not shift out of first gear. It shifts from park to reverse and park to drive and will pull pretty strong, but will not shift to second. Also on several occasions the truck acts like the transfer case is in nuetral as "No pressure". It also did this when it was wenched down off of a slider type wrecker, for about 2 minutes and then went into gear but still don't shift out of first Also, if second gear is selected it makes no difference in the engine,it stays in first. I had the same problem with the "TV" cable when I installed the 302 and I hope I have not burnt the transmission up. I have adjusted the cable and test drove(1/8 mile or less each time) probably 50 times with no luck. The truck has a 351w and AOD transmission, Holley 650 vac secondaries, Edelbrock Performer intake, RV type cam. I would appreciate any information, even if it states I have burnt the transmission. I hope not because I don't really trust anyone around here. They are all out to "retire" on one job. Thanks, Johnny
You will need to remove the sump of the transmission and see if it has a lot of metal in there, if it does then you will need a change over. If it looks great then you will need to remove the rear housing and remove the governor valve and see if it is stuck. Clean it out either way. You can also try disconnecting the cable from the carbie and see if it is moving freely, if it is then take it for a drive while disconnected. This should make the transmission change up through the gears very quickly. If the car starts to change gear with the cable off then reconnect it and keep backing the tension off until it changes were you want it, you will need a transmission shop to finalise the adjustment and you can't dive it around with the cable disconnected as this will burn the transmission out within a 100 miles.

I own a 1993 ED XR6 with 150k's. The lockup torque converter does not work untill a long climb up a steep hill about 100 kilometers from home. It works at about the same place each trip. Does this trans have a temperature lock out inside? If so can it be bridged out from outside to test the operation of the lockup (revs drop about 200rpm when it works) Can a manual switch be wired in like an overdrive switch? Any help would be great Thanks
You will need to take this one to your local transmission shop as the lock up is controlled by a solenoid that can't be directly wired and would not make any difference as the solenoid may even be the problem in the first place. The lock up valve may even be stuck in the pump which would be my first choice because it would make sense that the valve would free up and start to work as the transmission temperature went up, this would also explain the steep hill with the extra heat the transmission would gain. Either of these would represent a change over.

I have a minisprint that I race in Tas. I am going to repower it with a 1400cc Fiat twin cam motor and was wondering if there was a high performance auto available that I could use behind it. I think if one could be custom made it would only need 2 speeds and a neutral. It has ben suggested that we should be able to get about 200 hp out of the fiat. Thanks Andrew
I need to know a little more about the Mini Sprint. Are you going to run it as a chain drive, Are you going to run it as a east-west or north-south motor. We can build a shortened 2 speed north-south transmission that will require a tail shaft and a quick change diff. This transmission will run in top gear as a one to one ratio transmission. You can also have it as a tap driven direct drive eliminating the need for a convertor. The transmission is supper light for an auto and very short. If you are going to run it as a chain drive or east-west then I will need the extra info so I can do some studying.

Hello, Thankgod I finally found a transmission site, that is useful, there are very few Autralian Transmission sites around so thankyou for supplying such a good one. Now to my questoin, I noticed the Extreme section of your website, and I am ipressed. I currently own a Vk and I have just put a 308 with a turbo bolt pattern that is around 400 horses. I am wondering how much it would cost to get an Extreme TH350 installed, including a high stall of around 2800. Thankyou Joe.
Thank you for your kind words. The cost of an Extreme T/350 transmission is $1675.00 inc gst for a change over not fitted, $1895.00 inc gst outright not fitted and $1810.00 inc gst fully fitted if your car already has a T/350 in it. The cost of an Extreme 2800 Hi Stall convertor is $470.00 inc gst if purchased at the same time as the Extreme Transmission. Hope this helps.

Hello, I stumbled across your webpage address whilst looking through parts peddler. I am hoping you will be able to help me out, I am doing up a VK 308. I purchased a new engine with a turbo bolt pattern on the block to get away from the Trimatic transmissions. I am thinking that a Turbo 350 will be the go, now what I am hoping you can help me out with is this. Will I be able to just pretty much drop the TH350 in or will I need a cross member fabricateed or anything like that? Is there any known problems with fitting a TH350 to a VK that you have come across?? My last question is, the engine is around 380 horsepower, will a turbo 350 transmission be strong enough to handle that kind of power? Thankyou for your help, it is greatly appreciated. Tim Moran.
The T/350 is one of the best and easiest conversions into the VK. It fits in with very little fuss. You will need a Kick Down Cable, Kick Down Bracket, Turbo Speedo Cable, Filler Tube and Dip Stick, Dust Cover and Convertor bolts. The STD Trimatic drive plate will fit straight between these to and you can use the tail shaft, rear cross member and T.bar linkages. The cross member will be moved back and you will have to add 1 inch spacers between the cross member and the chassis rails but the holes are already in the rails for this transmission. The Trimatic runs rubber cooler line for the last 12 inches so these are easily diverted to the cooler unions on the transmission. The tail shaft is the right spline and set up and in MOST cases will fit straight in with out modification. We have all of these parts hear if you need them.

I've had a Trimatic loose all forward gears while driving. Is this a common fault with these units. Also I'm looking to get this particular box which was behind a 6cyl rebuilt and put it behind a 253. Apart from the bellhousing and torque converter I can't pick any differences between the 6cyl and V8 units, is this true?? Thanks
Replacing the servo unit will fix your forward gear as it is a very common problem but only a transmission shop will be able to do this as it is a little involved. The 6cly transmission wont go behind the V8 as the input shaft is also different.

G'day Orto, I have a '96 Jeep Cherokee with what appears to be driveline vibes. Was lifted 2" back in '99 and has recently had leaf added to rear which is now at 3". Have installed 1" transfer case dropper and shimmed rear axle 2 degrees with only little success. Problem does appear to improve (now slightly) with load (around 300kg) in rear. Have had diffs and axles checked and replaced rear unis with no difference. Have been told that slip yoke eliminator is required to to replace inherent problems with slip yoke/short drive shaft combination on these vehicles when lifted. Have also been advised that could be bent transfer case shaft (apparently common and although only 3-4 times/year, jeep is worked hard in bush), torque converter or auto trans. Only clues - Problem appears to be at worst under load between 60-80km but is still evident at all speeds and that problem is worstening with time to extent where added rear weight makes little difference. Anything I should look for/test before commiting to over $1500 for SYE/cardon shaft? Happy to convert but if I could be certain that it would fix vibes. Don't want to spend these sort of dollars and be no better off. Have had inspected by local jeep agent and a driveline specialist who cannot assist any further. Finally, do you have any testing that could be done for a Jeep with this problem that doesn't require stripping the transmission and tranfer case. Although I'm on the other side of the city I'd gladly drive to Bayswater if there's some non dismantling type testing that could be done to eliminate some of the potential causes. Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers Wes
Remove the rear drive shaft, put the transfer case into 4 wheel drive and drive the car. if the vibration is gone then you know that the problem is within the drive shaft or drive shaft angle. Fit the shaft and then remove the front shaft and see what happens. This will quickly tell you where the problem is. It is a little more complicated once you have narrowed it down but if you gave us a call we will talk you through it. 03-97628004

I am fitting a turbo engine to my smick VL Commodore, will I need to get another automatic or am I safe with the standard already there. If I need to change what are my cheap ways of getting my dream engine up and running,(standard turbo engine being fitted)I could use all the info and experience u can offer me please. Thank you. Alan.
Depending on how you drive will determine the outcome here. If you are going to give a Real Hard Time then you will need to fit a Modified Trimatic with conversion to the car. This will cost about $3500.00 inc gst Fitted. The transmission will become a full manual transmission that is the same as our drag racing transmissions. If your only going to give it a hard every now and then I would recommend an Extreme version of the transmission that is currently already in the car. This will cost $2870.00 inc gst fully fitted. A Standard change over fitted is $1870.00 inc gst but I doubt very much if this is going to last long if given a hard time.

Is there a 4 speed auto that will fit behind a VK Commodore 6 cylinder? If so, what, how much will it cost, and how easy is the fit? Cheers Mike
The VP and VN V6 Turbo 700 ( 4L60 ) transmission will fit with an adapter kit. The kit costs $676.50 inc gst and comes with new Speedo cable, new rear mount, custom made cross member, adapter plate, spigot and the main nuts and bolts. We have fitted a few and as far and adapter kits go this is an easy one. You will need to shorten the tail shaft but the yoke will fit straight in. You will need a new filler tube and dip stick $95.00 inc gst, Kick down Cable $75.00 inc gst and you will need to make your own kick down cable bracket. The Standard T.bar unit will fit and work fine with Park, Reverse, Neutral and Drive all lining up but you will have 3 gears in the space of 2 for the lower gears.

I have just purchased an LX Torana 253 auto....if I work the motor what is the best auto to put behind it?.....T400, T350 or some have told me to do up a Trimatic??? what's the best value for money for a young guy without much cash but likes giving his car hell.. Thanks from Steve Up and coming petrolhead.
Either a T/350 or Trimatic. If you don't have much in the way of cash the Trimatic would be my choice. The Trimatic can be well built in to a nice firm transmission that can handle most of what your going to throw at it. It will need to be rebuilt to add the Stage II shift kit and will need a Chrome Molly servo piston among other things to make it into a though unit but it`s the cheapest way out.

What is the purpose of a high stall converter?...I see many cars advertising they have 2000 or 3500 stall converter.....what do they do and why do you have them? Thanks from Steve Up and coming petrolhead.
For the most part the Convertor is what gets the car off of a standing start. The difference in the stall speed is what tunes the engine and the drive line together, If you have an engine that has a cam shaft installed that starts to work at 3000rpm you will need a 2800-3000 hi stall convertor to compliment the engine. If you put a Standard stall convertor of say 1500 rpm behind the same motor the same engine will be trying to pick up rpm's at a drastically reduced rate, Same engine but it`s now missing 70-80% of it,s acceleration on take off. The engine will struggle to get the cars motion up to a fast enough speed where the engine begins to get up 3000 rpm where it will suddenly take off by which time the old man driving the steep through scooter has absolutely annihilated you off the mark and possibly for the first 100 meters. Are you starting to get my point, all convertors must have the engine specification in mind, particularly the cam shaft.

How much is a shorted Powerglide set up for Speedway Racing with shorted input sharft no tourqe convertor shortend output shaft with the best of everything. thanks john
Our Extreme Direct drive Powerglide with short bell housing, Direct Drive Plate, Shuttle Ball unit, Short Bell housing, Shortened output shaft, Super short extension housing, Fully Blue Printed, Full manual PTC Valve Body and a lot more will set you back $2900.00 inc gst.

How much would it cost to have a B&M Quicksilver shifter fitted to a T350 gearbox in a holden VH commodore. Would I have to fit a manual valve body. How much would a stage 2 shift kit cost also? An approximate quote would be very much appreciated. Yours Sincerely, Cameron McLean
Supply and fit B&M Quicksilver shift will cost $590.00 inc gst fully fitted with wiring, you will loose the front half of your of your console but. You can integrate it into your existing consul but I have never done this before. Your valve body will be fine, no need to change anything and the Stage II shift kit will cost $295.00 inc gst fully fitted with transmission service, we can do this in car.

I have a 1987 Ford F150 with a 351 c6 transmission. When I drive the truck it seems to shift only at higher rpm's. I believe it's the modulator according to a local mechanic. I'm really looking for a picture so I could replace it myself. DC
Try replacing the top and bottom vacuum rubbers and make sure that there is no pressure pressing down on the kick down rods as either can give you a late shift. Always replace the vacuum rubbers even if they look brand new as we have had problems with new ones as well. Never bend a straight piece of vacuum rubber into a right angle to make it fit the modulator as there is a moulded rubber piece that can be brought from any transmission shop. If the transmission is only changing late when the car is cold then you are more likely to have metal in the valves and that would result in a overhaul.

Do you have a shortened 2 speed Powerglide set up for Speedway if so how safe are they how reliable and how much thanks for your time. Regards John
Yes we do have a large range of speedway transmission components as we build many of the transmissions that you see today on the track. A super short Powerglide rear end is $590.00 inc gst. This is for both the Aluminium billet rear housing and the shortened out put shaft that has been resplined. We also have short Bell housings and direct drive units available. The short rear end is only 2 inch's long. We use this unit all the time without any problems.

I would like an exchange price for a 92 Nissan Patrol GQ 4X4 4 speed Auto. Thank You.
A fully reconditioned transmission change over Not Fitted is $2070.00 inc gst with reco convertor and one year unlimited km warranty and $2715.00 inc gst Fully Fitted with oil and free tow within the metro region of Melbourne.

I have a VL Commodore 1988 model and I've blown the gearbox in it. I don't have much money and I don't know if I can trust putting a second hand box in. Reconditioning seems to cost around 2000. What should I do?
If the transmission is buggered then you will have to have it reconditioned. Second hand units are always a bad idea and a conversion to either a different type of automatic or manual transmission will cost a great deal more than reco transmission. The cost of a reco 4 Speed VL Automatic transmission is $1500.00 inc gst Not Fitted and $1655.00 inc gst Fully Fitted with 2 years unlimited km warranty.

Hi guys, I've got Ford Laser 1990 automatic. The problem is that when you wanna reverse the car it just seems to rev heaps and then it eventually clicks into gear. Sometimes it`s fine but most of the time it`s a problem. I just want to know how this can be solved and the possible options I have. Thanks
This transmission is renowned for reverse problems that in most cases results in the transmission requiring an Overhaul. The reverse input clutch is the down fall of this transmission and most certainly the cause of your problems.

Dear Orto, I am looking at purchasing an EB Fairmont Ghia with 4 Speed BW Auto. During a test drive I noticed it "kind of slips" during change from 2nd to 3rd. Otherwise was okay. Is this an adjustment, minor repair or an expensive one? How much to fix? Thanks
The 85LE 4 Speed transmission has an aluminium clutch drum that is quite prone to having it`s internal sleeve move resulting in the clutch pack burning out over a period of time but a faulty solenoid is also capable of causing the same problem. This complaint should be examined by an Automatic Transmission repair shop to gain more information on the problem. The solenoid can be fixed quite cheaply during a transmission service but the internal sleeve would result in an Overhaul.

Firstly, thanks for the E-mail Q&A service. Brilliant. I have a VS Commodore, 130K on clock. Tranny works fine, but at about 100k's, on an intermittent basis, I get a deep rumble with vibration from the transmission. Tends to happen on flat surfaces when on constant light throttle load, especially when using cruise control. Goes away when I give the accel a little movement. Lock up converter could also be playing silly buggers? Would appreciate your advice.
Sounds like a lock-up convertor related problem. Do the revs change when the problem comes and goes?? Could be a problem with the convertor or possibly the motor is feeling the load under lock-up conditions.

I own a HX Holden 1 Ton ute with a red 202, 3.55 LSD, I use this to tow my ski boat. I currently have a Celica 5sp manual gear box that works quite well, however the boatramp has won, I cannot get up there without burning the clutch or smoking the tyres, so I feel the time has come to go automatic. Can you recommend a suitable transmission for the job, I have nothing except the original tail shaft and speedo cable. So some of the things required are flexplate and cover, torque convertor, shifter, and kick down set up. Any info or prices you can offer will be greatfully received. Thanks and regards Warren McMillan
The Trimatic 6cyl transmission with a Stage II shift kit and a 2500 Hi Stall Convertor is an absolute little weapon and a great all rounder. This transmission when built right can really hold it`s own and I doubt very much if you will have any trouble with this unit. We have everything here at Wholesale to help you with your conversion but it would be best if you rang us on 03-97628004 for the prices as they will vary as to your requirements.

I have just fitted a C4 (3000 stall) to a 351c. On drive tests it seemed normal, but on the dyno, when we tried to rev at 4000 rpm the engine flashed about another 1000 but didn`t go anywhere. It was NOT turning the tyres! I have since been told that this may be caused by the governor valve not operating correctly so it will not lock up in top gear as it should. I have also been told that a tiny speck of dirt etc may cause this, probably was in the cooler lines even though I did clean everything. Any ideas? I can tell you more about it if that would help. Thank you Racer Ben
The way you test the stall speed of a Hi Stall convertor is by putting the transmission in low gear, pulling the hand brake on and putting your foot firmly on the brake, then apply full throttle and check your engine speed. You can only hold the engine at full throttle for a few seconds as the convertor temperature will rise dramatically. I would do this test and get back to me first. This will help me identify the problem. And make sure that no one is standing in front of the car in case your brakes can not hold back the power of the Engine. The governor valve has no bearing on the stall speed of the convertor but that doesn`t mean that another valve isn`t involved.

I'm after a new transmission for my HJ Kingswood 4x4 converted panelvan. I'm currently running a red 202 and a 4 speed Isuzu manual from a old Diesel Jackeroo, I've already broken teeth off it once and cooked the ( the rather heavy duty ) clutch once. I'm looking at upgrading the engine to a small block Chev, nothing wild just something that will reliably give me oodles of torque when I need it. I've been told by some American 4X4 conversion freaks that a T/700 automatic transmission would be a good choice. Do you think so and would you be able to supply one? I'm also after a transfer case to suit a 350/383 Chev and 4 speed auto combination, preferably something that will bolt straight up. DO you have any suggestions?
The T/700 transmission is a good choice and can easily be adapted in as it already has the Chevy bolt pattern. We have these in stock and also a wide range of transfer case adapter kits to suit many different model transfer cases. I will also be able to supply a good transfer case to do the job but will need more info on your chassis layout.

Brett Williams from Broken Hill here i`m in a bit of trouble with my trans it`s a T350 auto and it`s locked in forward gear, you can put it in park but it`s still in drive because it wont rev up. It has no neutral or reverse what would be the problem, any info would be greatly appreciated.
The manual valve has come free from the linkage system, I have seen this a few times before and in most cases it`s the internal lock nut that holds the selector shaft in place. This comes loose and allows the internal linkage system to slip sideways and disconnect from the valve bodies manual shaft. The pan will have to come off to fix this so you will need a new pan gasket and 5 litres of transmission oil, you will use about 4 - 4.5 litres of the oil. Please make sure that your selector linkage`s are connected on the outside of the transmission before you start ( just in case ). If you have any trouble contact me.

My NA Fairlane after about 5 to 10 mins of driving, clunks into 3rd gear and stays in that 3rd for the rest of the time. Is this major, or just a service or something else? thanks David
I`m assuming that you have a 4 speed transmission that is obviously going into fail safe mode. The ECU ( Computer ) will do this for any number of reasons and you will need to take your car to an Automatic Transmission repair shop to have the fault codes taken from the ECU before a full understanding of the problem can be made. This is not something that you can do yourself. We have the diagnostic equipment to do it for you.

I have a 82 Bronco. I want to put a 460 Big Block in and would like to use the original C6 auto. Do I need a new bell housing to do that..
The C6 transmission doesn`t have a removable bell housing as it is part of the main case so it cannot be swapped over but the transmission can be dismantled and reassembled into a Big Block C6 case.

93 Mitsubishi Magna V6 has done 135000 kilometres city, the automatic transmission loses reverse drive when the oil heats up all forward gears fine. When the oil is cold reverse works ok. Could you help please.
You may have an ecu fault as the ecu will not allow rev engagement above certain engine revs,if the ecu receives the wrong info it will not select rev. Otherwise you will have a major mechanical fault thus requiring a rebuild.


 

Wholesale Automatic Transmissions - info@automatictransmission.com.au
Factory 2/4 Melrich Rd Bayswater Victoria, AUSTRALIA 3153
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